| Reviewed by D. Caldwell
During the 20th century, many members of the Yoruk ("Nomad")
tribe abandoned their wandering life of sheep-herding in the vast stretches
of the Toros Mountains (the long mountain range that separates the Mediterranean
coast of Turkey from the Anatolian plateau) and established permanent homes
along the coast. Most of them are farmers, some have become entrepreneurs
in the exploding tourist trade of this region, and a few have been sufficiently
corrupted by civilization to become politicians.
Nuri Yilmaz, author of this remarkable but brief book (it's only
3 pages long and the print is quite large), has combined all three professions.
Around 12 years ago the Yilmaz clan decided to leave their tents and upland
pastures to settle in the area around the ancient site of Aspendus.
Almost all the present population of Aspendus are members of the Yilmaz
clan, and they all have beautiful small farms in the lush delta of the
Eurymedon River.
Since Nuri lived only 200 yards from the ancient theater (a spectacular
building, the best-preserved ancient theater anywhere in the world), he
converted the veranda of his home into a small refreshment stand, hoping
to attract the tourists who were coming to Aspendus in increasing numbers.
On the other side of the site his brother Durmush did exactly the same
thing, in the shadow of the ancient aqueduct (also one of the best-preserved
in the world).
Eight years ago Nuri met the present reviewer and we became good
friends. I've watched his son Mesut and his daughters Fatma and Dudu
grow up, I've taken all my Turkish groups to meet the Yilmaz family, and
I witnessed all the events which are related in Nuri's book.
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The title is somewhat misleading, since Nuri's encounters with
Americans occupy the first and last sentences of the book. Only the
relatively lengthy middle section (page 2) concerns Nuri's election as
Muhtar ("Mayor") of Aspendus, which turned out to be a traumatic event
in his life.
This is the first sentence:
"Shortly after I became Muhtar of Aspendus, my fame and reputation
reached America, and a group of American movie people, from a place called
Walt Disney, came with Dick to see me and drew many pictures of me, Halime
[Nuri's wife], and my children, since they were making a movie about someone
named Hercules, which I have not seen, and we all had a wonderful picnic."
And this is the last sentence:
"In 1996 my friend Dick, the one who brings so many crazy Americans
to have a picnic with me and my family, finally brought me the bottle of
Johnny Walker whiskey I had asked for, but he forgot that I specifically
said that the label should be black."
The central section of the book (all of page 2, in fact) is concerned
with Nuri's election as mayor, a victory facilitated by the fact that all
the voters were named Yilmaz and Nuri was the only candidate. This
is what he says:
"After I was elected muhtar, my first official duty was to go to Ankara,
the capital of our country, to receive my official seal of office.
It took more than 20 hours to go by bus from Aspendus to Ankara, then I
spent 2 days waiting to get the stupid seal, and then another 20 hours
to return to Aspendus. Why did I want to be mayor, anyway?
I miss my sheep." |